The purpose of this Baseball Glove Buyer's Guide is to try and take the mystery out of how to buy a baseball glove, how to properly break in your new glove, and how to maintain it, so it will give you years of quality service.Before you actually make the purchase there are several things you can do to ensure you're buying the most suitable glove available for your individual purpose. Go to the links below.
Baseball Glove Buyers Guide
Baseball Gloves
* How to * What to *
Buy Guide
Our intention is for you, the glove buyer, to find the answers to all of the questions you may have in this "Guide to Buying a Baseball Glove". If we've missed something, left your question unanswered or made it to confusing, please feel free to call us, our knowledgeable staff will be happy to assist you. If we don't know the answer we will do everything we can to get it for you.
Baseball gloves are measured by starting at the top of the index finger of the glove, and measuring down the finger, along the inside of the pocket, and then out to the heel of the glove. Use a flexible tape and allow it to "lay" in the pocket as you measure. For first base mitts (which have no fingers) simply measure from the highest point on the mitt in the same fashion as a fielders glove. All gloves are referenced for size by inches. Typically, baseball gloves have a range from 9 inches (youth starter size), to 12.75 inches for adult outfield play. Catchers mitt sizes while expressed in inches, are measured by circumference. Typically a baseball catchers mitt will measure in circumference from 30 inches (youth size), up to 34.5 inches with .5 inch incremental sizes in this range.
Glove Size & Usage by Position
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10" - 10 1/2" (youth model)
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10 1/2" - 11" (youth model)
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11" - 11 1/2" (youth model)
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The main difference between gloves and mitts is that gloves have fingers and mitts don't. Mitts tend to do a better job of controlling balls that don't hit in the pocket, and can aid scooping ground balls and short hops. 1st base and catcher are the only positions which use mitts.
Perhaps the most important point in this section is to avoid the temptation to buy a glove that is to "large" for the person using it, with the thought in mind "they will grow into it". What will actually happen is the player will get discouraged and want to quit after the glove falls off his hand a couple of times, or you'll get discouraged and either go buy another glove the right size, or wonder why "little Johnny" can't keep his glove on like the rest of the guys. Either way its a lose-lose proposition. Buy the right size the first time and avoid needless pain.Youth gloves are smaller so kids will be able to maintain glove control, typically are designed to be easy to break-in, and will sometimes have a notch in the heel to help the glove break-in correctly. Youth gloves are designed with smaller finger and wrist openings to better fit smaller hands, generally have a Velcro or other type wrist adjustment, a great feature in youth gloves, as it will help keep the glove fitting properly over a longer period of time, and will allow the use of the glove by more than one person. Youth gloves may have an over-sized pocket to aid youngsters who are learning how to catch.
Most first base mitts are designed for baseball use and measure between 12 and 13 inches. First base mitts usually have a thin but stiff pad that runs around the circumference of the mitt, with little or no padding in the palm or finger area. First base mitts made specifically for youth players generally will measure 11 to 11.5 inches.
Baseball catcher's mitts usually have a thick pad around the circumference of the mitt with thick padding in the finger area, and less padding in the palm area. The pocket in a modern catchers mitt is somewhat larger, but more shallow than it used to be, with the modern catchers glove being more flexible and evolving towards a first base mitt look alike as the quickness of the ball to hand transfer for a catcher is critical. Catchers mitts range in circumference from 31 inches to 34 inches, with .5 inch incremental sizes in this range. Youth catcher mitts most typically are in the 31 to 32 inch range, and if made specfically for youth players, will have a smaller hand opening and finger stalls with some type of wrist adjustment.
Conventional also referred to as open back vs closed back is mainly a matter of style and personal preference.Conventional back gloves leave a space open across the back of the glove, and tends to be somewhat lighter.Some closed back gloves have a wrist adjustment which allows you to adjust how tight or loose the glove fits.Conventional or Open back: Preferred by infielders and catchers because of the flexibility.Closed back: Mostly preferred by outfielders and first basemen. Many outfielders closed back gloves have a "finger hole" which adds additional support.
Open Web: Most typically preferred by middle infielders, first basemen and some outfielders. An open web helps get the ball out of the glove quicker.
Closed Web: Preferred by pitchers, third basemen and most outfielders. Pitchers like the closed web to help hide the ball from the batter, while third basemen and outfielders like the additional support a closed web provides.
For whatever reason there exists more theories on the proper way to break-in and care for a baseball glove than we have the space to explore. Most of these theories are, at best, anecdotal and bear no resemblance to the proper care of leather which, obviously baseball gloves are made from. The first thing to bear in mind is we are talking about "leather" and regardless of what you may have heard or read in the past there are some absolute don't's when it comes to caring for your newly purchased baseball glove. Lets start with the break-in process.
Break-In:Depending on the type of leather your glove is made of, the length of time will vary between several days, and a couple of weeks. Universally accepted is the more you play catch with your new glove the quicker it will break-in. We've read of one person who actually took his new glove to the batting cages, purchased a couple of buckets of balls and rather than hitting them he caught them, repeating this process over several days helped speed up the process. Please understand there isn't an "overnight" solution to breaking in your glove, using it on a daily basis is the key. Some people think prior to using the glove for the first time you should apply a small amount of Glove Oil to the glove, if you choose to do this, its fine. Do NOT overuse the Glove Oil. Do use a Glove Oil or Conditioner made specifically for baseball gloves.
Whether you apply Glove Oil the first time before you use the glove or not, make certain you apply Glove Oil or Conditioner sparingly when you do oil your glove. Start with the palm of the glove and work out from this point until you have covered the entire glove (on the outside). Do NOT saturate the glove, just lightly coat it. Let the Glove Oil or Conditioner dry throughly before using it. Remember the more you catch with it the faster the process will be. Some believe putting a ball in the pocket after using the glove and then closing it tightly with a strong rubber band when not in use will help form the pocket more quickly. It's ok to do this, you can use a softball or a baseball depending on the size pocket your trying to develop. While this is an acceptable method for outfield, utility, third baseman's, and first baseman's gloves you probably don't want to do this with a glove intended for a shortstop or second baseman, whose gloves are typically flat with little if any pocket. Depending on conditions, once your glove is broken-in you should plan on conditioning it at the beginning of the season, and the end of the season, before you put it away. If you decide to buy a so called pre-broken in or game-ready glove, be aware these gloves generally will not last as long.
Off Season StorageThe baseball season is over. What am I going to do until the start of the next season? One thing you can do is take care of the faithful companion that stuck by you thru thick and thin, hopefully more thick than thin. Anyway it's time to take care of your glove, the one you made that major investment in before the season got underway, the one you don't want ending up like your last glove. First, inspect your glove carefully to determine if it needs any repair work including relacing. If so now is the time to get the work done.
Using a very "small" amount of glove conditioner, start at the palm and working outward (gee I think I've done this before) until the entire surface of the glove is "lightly" coated. Apply a very small amount of conditioner to a clean cloth, and wipe out the inside of the glove, including the finger stalls. Once you've completed this process you can place a ball in the pocket if you wish, place the glove in a clean cloth bag, and store it in a well protected area such as the top shelf of your bedroom closet. Your glove will be ready to go next spring, and remember, proper off-season storage is as important as in-season care and maintenance.
Some Important Do's:
Do play catch every day during break-in procedure
Do check and tighten the laces routinely as needed
Do wear a batting glove on your fielding glove hand - it will protect the inside from moisture
Do store the glove away from extreme heat when not in use
Do let the glove dry naturally should it get wet
Some Very Important Dont's:
Don't put your glove in the microwave
Don't put your glove in the oven
Don't use a hairdryer or other artificial source of heat on your glove
Don't submerge your glove in water
Don't beat the glove leather with a hosehold hammer or bat - there are special glove break-in mallets available
Don't leave your glovein the trunk of your car when not in use - extreme heat can build up in this area
Don't use anything other than oils or conditioners made specially for baseball gloves or fine leather
Don't use any oil or conditioner that contains silicone regardless of the manufacturer
Don't saturate your glove with any glove conditioner - use sparingly - excess oil attracts dirt, and can ruin a glove quickly
Conventional (open) Back vs Closed Back
Higher quality baseball gloves and mitts are usually distinguished by higher grade leather, better construction and better design. These work together to produce a glove or mitt that is durable and helps the ball into and out of the pocket. The highest quality gloves are usually made of heavy leather that will need some time to break-in and typically do not have palm pads or Velcro adjustments.
The leather should be fairly sturdy. A stiffer glove will have to be broken in, but once done, the glove will be serviceable for many seasons. The softer "pre-broken" gloves feel great, but many of them wear out very quickly and may be difficult or impossible to repair. The leather in the pre-broken gloves is usually thinner and therefore weaker than that in a sturdier glove. The thinner, softer leathers tend to show signs of stress at the lacing holes in the web and fingers after a few months of continuous play.
Manufacturers usually tout a glove's materials whenever they are made of something considered "premium" enough to provide a selling point. If a glove is made of full-grain leather or premium steerhide, the two top grades, the manufacturer will definitely print that fact prominently on the glove. Top-quality leather makes the best gloves, but the reality is, for a kid's glove that will be outgrown and discarded after a few years, premium materials are nice but not crucial.
The original method of turning animal skins into leather is known as "vegetable tanning," which means the skins are tanned with tree bark or tree-bark extracts containing tannin. Vegetable-tanned leather undergoes a lengthy tanning process that results in a leather that is flexible and has superior moldability. The other primary method of tanning is called "chrome tanning," in which the skins are tanned with mineral salts. Chrome tanning can be done in a fraction of the time of vegetable tanning, and results in a stronger, more abrasion-resistant leather. Almost all baseball gloves today are chrome tanned leather. "Oil tanning" is a specialized process that is rarely seen today, and is used exclusively in split leathers such as chamois and buckskin. Rawlings claims to use oil-tanned leather in some of their gloves, but more likely the leather is chrome tanned and then oiled.
Leather specialist Steve Laliloff, who made the gloves for the movie "Eight Men Out", stated that vegetable tanned leather is preferable and will last longer than chrome tanned leather, however, it's very difficult to obtain vegetable tanned leather, especially when a volume of gloves is being manufactured.
Here are the basic Leather Grades and Types used in Baseball & Softball Gloves:
Buffalo skin is used by only one manufacturer, Nokona. Buffalo skin is said to be tougher and lighter than full grain steer hide, but breaks in just as easily. Most people aren't going to want to get a Little Leaguer a buffalo skin glove because of the high price, but if they want to, it's out there.
"Full-Grain" leather is steer hide or cow hide leather on which the entire natural grain remains. It will either be the original thickness of the skin, or the bottom grain will have been sanded off until the leather is the desired thickness. This grade is uncommon in youth gloves, but is readily available in premium adult gloves that come in sizes suitable for older Little Leaguers. Although in theory full grain leather can be any weight, in practice, gloves made of full grain leather tend to be stiffer and heavier than other types, and require longer break-in periods. These leathers are rarely pre-oiled, because the players who buy gloves of this quality usually want to apply their own particular break-in method. Once broken in, full grain leather gloves are superior in both performance and durability. Catchers' mitts are almost always made of full grain leather or premium steer hide.
"Top-Grain" leather" is a misnomer; it is usually leather in which the "top" grain (the fur side) is sanded off until the leather is a desired thickness, and then filled or treated, where an artificial grain is introduced, usually by pressing. Many baseball gloves probably are top grain leather, but the manufacturers may not always use the phrase to describe the leather. Often they use a brand name instead. Nokona is the only manufacturer that says its gloves use "top grain leather." In Nokona's case, the leather is heavy weight and very durable. Wilson's "Quick-Stop" leather is also a top grain leather, but it is medium weight and has average durability.
Steer hide, which comes from neutered bulls, is somewhat stronger than cow hide. Manufacturers are free to call any steer hide "premium," but in practice they reserve this designation for their better grades of heavy weight steer hide, usually top grain, occasionally full grain. Gloves made of this leather tend to be stiff and somewhat heavy, with longer break-in periods. These leathers are sometimes pre-oiled. Many manufacturers have gone away from premium steerhide both because the market now demands softer gloves, and to save money because few consumers know the difference.
"Leather" means cow hide, usually medium weight, but sometimes heavy weight. This category encompasses the greatest range of quality. Cow hide performs well, and will break in faster, but also wear out faster than steer hide. Usually this grade will come "pre-oiled" or otherwise treated to reduce break-in time. Cow hide is probably the best all-around choice for a youth glove for ages 10 and up. There are many good Leather glove bargains in the $25-$50 range.
Kangaroo skin is stronger than steer hide of any grade, and weighs a fraction as much. It is fairly new to the baseball glove market, and what grades are being used is anybody's guess. Some manufacturers use kangaroo only in premium gloves, while others use it only in their budget baseball gloves. Early reports say it breaks in easily but doesn't hold its shape as well as the better cow hide or steer hide grades. Often gloves are made with steer hide or cow hide palms for durability, and kangaroo skin backs for light weight.
Pigskin is far less durable than cowhide. However, it is more flexible and breaks in far more easily than cowhide, and costs less. Pigskin gloves are inexpensive, and can be ideal for a youngster who wants a good-performing glove but who may grow out of it in a year.
